We’re going to be mugged. Everyone says so. Everyone has a second-hand horror story about Barcelona, which is, according to these alarming reports, the most crime-riddled city in Europe, maybe the world.
Either that or we’ll absolutely love it. Everyone who doesn’t have a second-hand horror story about Barcelona says so. It is, according to these sun-kissed reports, the best city in Europe, maybe the world.
For us, Barcelona turns out to be neither the worst nor the best city in the world, or indeed in Spain. We see no crime at all, but the pre-trip warnings colour our whole visit. We spend so much time clutching our bags and scanning the crowds to spot our knife-wielding attackers that we sometimes miss what a cool city Barcelona is.
Barcelona’s a party town, the first great world city on our trip, and a shock to the system after the more reserved and stately experiences of Andalusia, with its sultry nights and friendly, promenading citizens.
When we get there, Barcelona is packed with 20-something Brits on stag and hen weekends but even so, and unlike the broadly homogeneous Seville, Barcelona is incredibly diverse, which is hardly surprising for a city of 4 million people, and which spans a wide geographical area. So there is no single Barcelona, there are many Barcelonas.
We’re staying in the funky Born district. With its narrow winding streets it’s not dissimilar to Seville. Elsewhere there are wide, straight boulevards that cross the city from one side to the other (the Diagonal, for example, runs in a straightish line for about 11km). There’s also a long boardwalk where the Mediterranean washes upon Barcelona’s shore.
There are further ways that Barcelona differs from the other parts of Spain we’ve visited. Most notable is the sense of Catalan nationalism. Barcelona may be in Spain but it hardly feels like it. Catalunyan flags hang draped from apartment windows, while the art gallery is quite pointedly the national (ie, not regional) art gallery of Catalunya. The language seems, at least when written, to be as close to French as Spanish, and everyone speaks Catalan. My carefully learnt Spanish for, “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Spanish,” draws stares that seem to say, “Me neither, mate, not if I can help it.”
One of Catalunya’s favourite sons is the architect Antoni Gaudi, and we anticipated falling in love with his work. We’re both fans of Art Nouveau and thought its marriage with Arabic design influences and the bright colours of Barcelona would charm the socks off us.
Sometimes it did; Gaudi’s undulating lines and Mad Hatter facades can be hard to resist. Casa Batllo and parts of Park Guell were delightful.
However, Gaudi’s most famous work, the still unfinished Sagrada Familia church, is awful. For a place of worship, it is remarkably profane. Partly that’s because it crawls with tourists, all ticking off their ‘must see’ lists, and we were equally culpable on that count. But Sagrada Familia was noisy and busy and flashes were firing and skill saws were buzzing and the interior was more gaudy than Gaudi.
Much more spiritual is Barcelona Cathedral. Flash photography is banned, silence is requested and people are turned away if they dress inappropriately for church. I’m not a believer but if you go to church I think you should respect those who are, and Barcelona Cathedral, unlike Sagrada Familia, feels like a place of worship.
Outside the cathedral we experience one of those special moments you sometimes get when you travel. In the square at the front of the cathedral, a man is playing guitar and singing Catalan folk tunes. The yearning music sounds more Cuban than Spanish, and completely different to the Andalusian flamenco we’ve been hearing. Out of the growing crowd, a couple of 70-somethings clasp hands and begin to dance, swaying gently to the rhythm, eyes locked. Lost in the moment, lost in each other, lost in their own form of worship.
RICHARD and MELANYA
STRAY OBSERVATIONS
- We have become invisible to wait staff. They are not rude, unfriendly or incompetent. Rather, they practice a form of benign neglect. A shame, because the food is so good you want to order more of it. Good luck with that
- Across the alleyway, hearing the TV screen Spain 1-5 Holland and the viewers become increasingly subdued as their tragedy unfolds
- As well as speaking Catalan, everyone can speak fluent Spanish and English
- Sculptures on the roof of the Gaudi-designed La Pedrera gave George Lucas inspiration for the Storm Troopers in Star Wars